When the repair is worth it, and when it is not
Two figures settle this, and both are published on this page: what the fault costs to put right, and what the cabinet costs to replace.
- Repairing
- $230–$2,380
- Replacing
- $11,600–$16,800
- Knowing which
- $80
The floor and the ceiling of every band we publish, parts and labor together.
A comparable built-in, appliance only, before panels, delivery or joinery.
Flat $80 diagnostic. It is credited toward the repair if you go ahead with the work.
The arithmetic only starts after the diagnosis
Nobody can weigh a repair against a replacement before anyone knows what the fault is, and a shop that settles it over the telephone is quoting a guess. The sequence here does not change: $80 flat for the diagnostic, a written finding, a published band for the part the readings condemn, and then the comparison below. You get a written estimate before any part is ordered or any labor is billed.
The comparison itself is not the one most people make. It is not a repair against a new appliance — it is a repair against a new appliance plus the opening it has to fit. A built-in sits in a cased space made to its dimensions, frequently behind a panel matched to the rest of the kitchen. That is why the replacement table below carries a second line for panels and cabinetry at $2,000–$5,000, and why the number that looks like the price of an appliance is rarely the price of the job.
When the repair is clearly worth it
Most of the time, and it is not close. Every band we publish except one lands far below the cost of the cabinet it is fitted to:
- A door gasket or seal, $230–$630 — the fault behind most frost complaints on this coast.
- An evaporator or condenser fan motor, $270–$590.
- A defrost heater, thermostat or sensor, $240–$610.
- An ice maker, water valve or supply line, $240–$660.
- An electronic control board, $430–$790.
Set any of those against $11,600–$16,800 for a comparable built-in and the decision makes itself. A fouled condenser is cheaper still, and out here it is the single most common reason a cabinet cannot make its last few degrees — which is why coil service is the least expensive line item we have and the one most often left too late.
When it is a genuine judgement call
One band changes the shape of the conversation: sealed-system work, at $920–$2,380. That is still well under a replacement cabinet, so the arithmetic on its own still says repair — but it is the one job where the rest of the cabinet has to be read as carefully as the fault. Three things decide it, and we go through them on site rather than on the phone.
- What the condenser has left. Fin material eaten back by chloride does not grow again. A coil that has lost surface area will push a new compressor to run long and warm from its first week.
- What the hardware is doing. Hinges stiff with salt, a door that no longer pulls itself shut on the last inch, fasteners blooming white — that is a cabinet telling you where it is in its life.
- What the opening is worth. Joinery built around this cabinet is an asset of the repair. Joinery that is being torn out next spring is not.
Where those read clean, a $920–$2,380 repair on a cabinet that will go on for years is straightforward economics, and our sealed system page sets out how the diagnosis gets there.
When we will tell you not to bother
It happens, and we would rather say it before you spend than after. A cabinet with fin material gone at the leading edge, a compressor already drawing hard and hardware blooming at every fastener is not one repair — it is the first of several, and a sealed-system bill on it buys time rather than years. So does a cabinet whose opening has moved, where the door will never sit square again without a cabinetmaker.
The same applies when the kitchen is coming out anyway. If the joinery is changing, the argument that makes built-in repair obvious disappears with it, and you are back to comparing appliances. A call that ends this way is on the short list of things we do not bill for at all — it is the one answer a service company has no incentive to give, which is exactly why it belongs in public.
What the 50 percent rule misses on this equipment
The rule of thumb says replace once the repair passes half the price of a new machine, and it was written for appliances you can wheel out of a gap. Run it here and the halfway mark on a $11,600–$16,800 built-in sits far above $2,380, the top of everything we publish — and that is before the $2,000–$5,000 of panels and cabinetry is added to the replacement side of the scale.
Which means the rule answers "repair" almost every time it is applied to a built-in, and that is why we do not lean on it. A rule that gives the same answer in every case is not doing the work; the readings are. Where it still earns its keep is smaller equipment, because a replacement wine or undercounter cabinet at $3,500–$5,500 sits much closer to the repair bands and the margin there is real.
What you are left holding either way
A repair here carries 90 days on labor, 365 days on parts. genuine oem parts on every repair. The full terms are on the warranty page, the whole price book and what the diagnostic buys are on pricing, and the questions owners ask about the bill are answered on the questions page. We service Sub-Zero refrigeration in Jacksonville Beach and the neighbouring beaches, we are an independent shop with no manufacturer program behind us, and the figures below are the ones we work to on the doorstep.
What does repairing cost, and what would replacing cost?
Flat $80 diagnostic covering the visit and the full diagnostic sequence, credited toward the repair once you approve the work.
| Work | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Diagnostic visit | $80 flat, credited |
| Door gasket or seal replacement | $230–$630 |
| Evaporator or condenser fan motor | $270–$590 |
| Defrost heater, thermostat or sensor | $240–$610 |
| Ice maker, water valve or supply line | $240–$660 |
| Electronic control board | $430–$790 |
| Compressor or sealed-system repair | $920–$2,380 |
| Instead of repairing | Typical range |
|---|---|
| A comparable built-in, appliance only | $8,600–$19,400 |
| Typical 36-42 inch built-in, the usual repair-or-replace comparison | $11,600–$16,800 |
| Custom panels and integrated cabinetry, on top of the appliance | $2,000–$5,000 |
| Replacement wine storage or an undercounter unit, appliance only | $3,500–$5,500 |
Ranges, not quotes. What a cabinet actually needs is settled by readings taken with the grille off, and the figure you are asked to approve is written down before a part is ordered.
Is a twenty-year-old Sub-Zero worth repairing?
- Age is not the number that decides it. A cabinet with a sound condenser, hardware that still turns and a door that seals is worth $230 to $2,380 of work against $11,600–$16,800 to replace. A cabinet corroded through at its fasteners is a different answer at any age.
Is it worth replacing the compressor on my refrigerator?
- On a built-in, usually yes. Sealed-system work is $920–$2,380, parts and labor, against $11,600–$16,800 for a comparable cabinet before panels or cabinetry. What changes the answer is the state of everything around the compressor, which is why we read the whole cabinet before quoting the part.
Does the diagnostic fee count toward the repair?
- Yes, in full, against the repair we quote on the same cabinet. $80 flat buys a technician on site, the grille off, readings taken and a written finding you can take anywhere. If the answer is that the cabinet is not worth the part, that call is not billed at all.
Is replacing one column of a pair cheaper than repairing it?
- Rarely, because a pair is two purchases rather than one. A replacement wine or undercounter cabinet alone is $3,500–$5,500, a full column more than that, and the panels that make them match the joinery are $2,000–$5,000 on top. Repairing the failed one keeps the set together.